“Papá Tomás is not my Dad,” Isa told me a few months after
we started dating. Despite the obvious potential for confusion created by that
moniker, Tomás, she explained, was in fact her uncle. It turned out he wasn’t really
her uncle either, he was one of the many relatives that had over the years been
brought into the fold of her family in a uniquely charming Venezuelan fashion.
Tuesday, July 23, 2013
Sunday, April 7, 2013
My Trouble with the Curve
This is
a place where I like to run my proverbial mouth about things I’m imminently
unqualified to discuss. Today I’ve got idle commentary on not one but two such
subjects – baseball and film.
Monday, April 1, 2013
Tell me about your trash, I’ll tell you about where you live
An archaeologist once told me that people generally thought
of grand temples and castles holding the secrets of the past, but that the one
could really learn the most from people’s trash. This is no less true for
modern societies.
Borobudur
See Borobudur before you die.A 9th century Buddhist temple in Central Java,
outside the city of Yogyakarta (no, that’s not Jakarta misspelled), it’s one of
the most amazing ancient sites I’ve visited.
Saturday, March 30, 2013
On a Bali massage table, dreaming of a Caracas newsroom
I glanced through the curative properties of the different
treatments on offer. This was a two hour affair including a full body massage
followed by a cleansing body scrub. That latter was available in five different
solutions that ranged from green tea to jasmine coconut to some unpronounceable
Balinese spices. They vowed to counteract wrinkles, cure cellulitis and wipe
away stretch marks. After sniffing a few small flasks I ultimately chose the
green tea concoction, mostly because it smelled good. It also offered to
provide ample anti-oxidants. I didn’t really know what anti-oxidants were, but
a cursory familiarity with Latin suggested it was something that would help
keep me from rusting. This was a
requisite part of the Bali experience that I couldn’t miss out on, particularly
in the Ubud where you can hardly walk two steps without someone offering you a
massage. We were to be rubbed down with jasmine oil, then being scrubbed down
with something that would tone my skin.
Wednesday, March 27, 2013
Bali keeps it real
In most countries I’ve been to, a tour guide shows me
through a beautiful temple, or the ruins of an ancient society, or a church that
exemplifies culture and history. Leaving
those places, one is almost always confronted with the reality that the modern descendants of those ancient societies don’t live in anything that remotely
resembles to iconic buildings being showcased.
Go to Southern Venezuela Roraima
and you’ll tour traditional villages with typical round thatch huts of the
Pemon indigenous people, just yards away from the squat concrete zinc-roofed
shacks where the Pemon people of today live. The countryside of northern Italy is
littered with beautiful castles in various states of repair or disrepair, none
of which represent a real housing option for the average person who lives
there. The historic center of famed Salvador de Bahia in Brazil boasts
cobblestone walks, ornate churches collapsing under the weight of gold
adornments, while bahianos live in
drab concrete apartment blocks and dress themselves up in stiflingly hot 19th
century garb in to lure tourists into paying them to take pictures.
Bali is the only place I can remember going where this is
not the case.
Bumpy landing in Ubud
After a bit too much reality in Jakarta, our landing in the
Bali resort city of Ubud turned out to be a bit more real-world than we had
bargained for. The tourist haven was known as the alternative to the beaches of
south Bali, converted over the last 20 years into a ghetto of drunken Australian
college students in the best style of a Florida spring-break beach scene. What
would ultimately become a fantastic five-day stay turned out to have a bit of
bumpy landing.
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